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Tuesday October 9, 2007
Early morning we weigh anchor and head off south to an anchorage documented by Moorings to
be near some interesting sights. It is nice being near the second largest town, but it is
time to venture out and experience what Tongan life is like without so much outside
influence. I would have to say so far we are surprised by the beauty of Tonga; actually we
are told we should refer to this as The Kingdom of Tonga. Referring to just Tonga you are
thought to be talking about a place in Africa.

Tonga is made up of 4 island groupings from north to south covering about 300+ miles. They
are Niuas, Vava'u, Ha'apai and Tongatapu where the capital, airport and largest city,
Nuku'alofa, is located. Most yachts use Vava'u to check in and that is what we did. The
charter company Moorings is located here; the best cruising and anchorages are here. We
all believe this area to be one of the best cruising areas we have seen. There are a few
large islands and many small islands many rounded rock with a lip like shore covered in
lush green vegetation. Each little island resembles a green frosted cup cake floating with
bottom half submerged.

We anchored off the island of Kapa. The crystal clear water is boiling with schools of
fish as sea birds are feeding on anything left floating in the water. Skin divers are out
with spear guns gathering fish for dinner. In the dinghy we set out for adventure. First
we located Swallows Cave. Locating the entrance on the rock wall shore of Kapa Island,
John carefully drives the dinghy inside. It would be dark inside if it were not for a beam
of sunlight entering through a big round 10 foot in diameter hole in the top of the cave.
Beyond the light the cave continues towards the interior of the island in complete
darkness. White "Swallows", actually they are white rumped swiftlets, sleeping in the dark
hanging to the roof of the cave come flying out and over us. The only thing that tarnishes
this experience is a little graffiti thoughtlessly left by a visitor.

Next we took the dinghy to a village on Kapa Island. On a beautiful beach lined bay a
crude concrete dock and a flag pole mark the village. We follow a muddy dirt path that
meandered through several very basic houses, barns and pastures with pigs, chickens and
horses. Tongans share all they have and produce, so these farm animals probably support
all who live in the village. Along the way we meet several teenage children who
immediately take an interest in us; it is probably not often that strangers like us visit.
They speak pretty good English telling us their name and asking us for ours. They also
want to know where we are from. We ask permission to walk through their village. I am not
sure they completely understand our question, but they do answer yes. Deep into the
village the path climbs a hill and passes what is clearly a community meeting place. It is
a large one room white building with a Sky Pacific satellite dish on the roof. There is a
large screen TV inside and several locals are sitting on the floor watching rugby
highlights. When an older man steps out, John asks permission again to walk through their
village. We get another yes. When the man learns from John that we too like to watch rugby
and that John is South African, the man beams a smile from ear to ear. In the background
you can hear a generator running to power the TV, and then we notice that each house has a
solar panel that probably charges a battery so they can have light at night.

We hurry back to Bella Donna; it is about to rain again.

God Bless Bella Donna.