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Sunday April 1, 2012
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Monday April 2, 2012

The only way we are going to get a good/any suitable anchorage at Soggy Dollar (SD) we must leave early. We leave the dock at 7 AM and find one tight spot at Soggy Dollar just before 9 AM. There is just not that much room in the anchorage for a yacht the size of BD. Sunday is usually a big day at SD, there a lot of small boats loaded with people coming for the day. As they arrive they anchor stern to the beach with a second stern anchor.

The day starts slow, it is Sunday after all. Sometime just before noon the 20 to 30 foot boats start to arrive. One boat is full of swim suit beauties with matching officer caps. Think Gilligan's Island. They say they spent the previous day doing a swim suit fashion shoot for a friend. Today they are looking to be noticed at SD. They were.

The average age for the assembled crowd was young, but there are people of all ages including a lot of families with young children on spring Easter break. A less than 20 foot arrives with an older group, 50 to 60, that is definitely in party mode. If they are seeking Rum Pain Killers, things will get interesting.

Sunday is definitely the day to be at Soggy Dollar. There is another boat of mostly young females. Clearly the single females outnumber the single males here today. There is a cruise ship sending boatloads of people to the beach.

The wind is strong so I should sail but everyone wants to go to our favorite table under the thatch umbrella in front of SD for lunch. The dinghy needs a rest so everyone decides to swim, this calls for water proof containers for iPhones and anything else that can not get wet.

The beach is a steep climb through soft sand with the sea swells engulfing you then breaking over you throwing you off balance. This is when I am glad I did not use one of the BladeFish, Lithium-ion Powered SeaJets (a scooter); they are neutral buoyant and a real assist in the water, but they become a dead body ounce standing and struggling onto dry land. Even once you are on dry land walking in the soft beach sand takes effort. Who wants a Pain Killer?

Of course, someone is at our favorite table; it is the swim suit models. Well we can just sit at the next table consume Pain Killers and wait, after all it is early.

After 2 or 3 Pain Killers and the live music, one beach combing guitarist, the beauties and their male protectors start the get noticed mingle. We descend and take claim to our now vacant favorite table. We welcomed burgers, fish & chips, chicken burgers and fries. This leads to a wonderful afternoon on the beach. We do not leave until the musician stops, it turns a little cool and most of the crowd leaves. We are not the last to leave. There is on young lady left on the beach by mistake by her friends. Also the older people who were among the first to arrive this morning are trying to dance their way into their dinghy. Once aboard it is clear this party is on the move. I think they are heading for Foxy's; I hope they make it to their destination before the party get out of hand.

Lets just say the next day was slow and quiet on BD. As it turned out a Day of Pain Killers in the sun does take its toll. I did enjoy my book and my naps on a quiet Monday. Hobo did not make it out as the wind was 4 knots most of the day and only reached 7 knots at the peak.

God Bless Bella Donna
Sent from my iPad

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Friday March 30, 2012

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Saturday March 31, 2012

The morning starts calm and humid, but as the sun rises so does the trade winds. We are departing for Scrub Island. Barely outside the approach channel keeping green buoys to right we raise the main fully, no reef. We then set a course for Scrub and raise the Code Zero (spinnaker), fully. The apparent wind is  at about 75-80 degrees port of our course. The sea state is very easy on BD so we are able to get maximum boat speed. We glide effortlessly through the blue sea at 10.5 knots. I really like how well BD with the new sails.

We are passing every boat ahead of us. It seems in no time at all we are passing the Dogs heading directly for Scrub. This time we pass on the windward side and sail directly down channel where our dock is located. Like a jet jockey, we do a sail by instead of a fly by. Emerging again in the open water between Scrub and Marina Kay, we lower the hard working sails and proceed to our waiting dock. We are back at Scrub following a memorable adventure. The only thing making this a challenge in such familiar place is the strong wind that blows BD toward the dock. When docking in addition to any current you must also worry about the wind as a big boat will catch the wind and sail. John quickly positions the port stern close to the dock so the dock hand can secure the line. The wind will move us to the dock and with a little forward throttle BD presumes the correct position on the dock protected by the new inflatable bumpers.

Some are hungry for the hot tub, pools and of course the ever present pool bar. Some want to swim off the back to the beach. There is also the really nice gym just 100 yards away. I decide to take Hobo, my Hobie Adventure Island Trimaran out for a spin. It takes some, no more than that, work to get the little guy out of its cradle on the port side and to the beach where we can assemble all the parts. The same wind that hastened our passage from Anegada is still blowing. However, it is swirling where we are. Hobo has three means of propulsion - paddle, special foot powered fins and sails. It is like having a belt, suspenders and a tie string on your pants. You will always get home without anxiety. 

It takes a while to tack in the fluky wind toward the open space where we had dropped BD's sails earlier. Often in frustration I peddle to assist the sails to go where I want. Reaching the open water the wind is strong and constant but it is still a series of tacks first port then to starboard required to reach into the ever turbulent sea. Finally I am past the reef that extends behind Marina Kay. How far should I go, is always an interesting question. I look at my watch and there is enough time for almost anything. I continue to tack into the wind. Even though the wind is strong enough to drive Hobo at top speed the now big sea is slowing her as her bow and outer hulls plunge into the sea and through hug volumes of sea water over me. Several tacks later I am tiring of the delightful punishment being handed me. I start to consider the what ifs and I think about the cords holding the boat together and how they had been punished by ultraviolet sun rays for a year. When is enough enough? Ok, lets go downwind home. After the thrills  of up hill sailing going with the wind and sea was delightful. Hobo and the wind reached that harmony where the boat goes fast enough running away from the wind that the wind seams to almost stop; it is very quiet. Just as you think you can't go any faster, a large sea swell lifts you up, suspends you and if you steer just right the boat SURFS DOWN the face of the swell like a surfboard. What a thrill, over and over again Hobo slides down the side of the succeeding swells. In no time at all I am back turning right into the Scrub Island channel where the ride ends and the wind returns to fluky.

Saturday the wind is mild and even where the swells were yesterday the seas are flat. What a difference. A lazy day except for the gym workout and shower ashore where you don't worry about using precious reverse osmosis water on board. Little floating, little beach and little pool bar. 

We end the day taking advantage of the buffet seafood dinner in the restaurant. I think I rank it a 9, the best I have ever had; I reserve 10 for the best that is impossible to ever experience. Lets just say we all overate.

God Bless Bella Donna

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Thursday March 29, 2012

Wow the wind really blu last night. Walking to the head, bathroom, in the dark was an acrobatic act last night. John tied the rigging to keep it from singing, but its vocals could not be completely suppressed. This morning the wind is blowing strong and the sea is wiped up. The boys decide to go ashore to Pam's Kitchen and Bakery for some breakfast treats. It is a wet ride; its a good thing my iPhone got put into a zip lock bag. The silt is also affecting where the dinghy can approach the dock. After several passes we find the right spot. Tied to the dock is the lobster storage cages that are populated with some probably unhappy large lobsters. Pam's is a short walk from the dock. The building is a weathered brightly colored shack that reminds me of the Texas small country town bakery from my childhood. Through the screen door we enter the combined sales counter followed by the kitchen and pantry all in one large room. The sales counter is piled high with sticky buns, loaves of bread, small carrot cakes and blueberry muffins. We order a little of each which in total is a lot. Taking our booty back to the dock we pass the tables and a row of oil drum Bar-B-Q pits where the lobsters will meet their fate most probably tonight.

With full bellies we set off to shore to begin the pilgrimage from one watering hole to another; we have our favorite sights. While the girls are doing a pilgrimage of their own through the limited number of boutiques all colorful shacks not unlike Pam's Bakery. One is completely purple and is appropriately named The Purple Place. The shop owners are so nice, you just feel like buying something to show how much you appreciate them. However, there is nothing you want enough to try and cram it into your suitcase. Many of the items are hand made locally, but some are the standard Made in China.

The pickup truck with the bench seats in the back that we prepaid for yesterday was rented out by mistake this morning. This is a common thing that happens in the BVI; businesses are run haphazardly. The nice Florida educated West Indian feels genuinely sorry about this and offers us 2 small SUVs one of which he offer to drive. In typical BVI slow your roll fashion we find a way to get all 7 of us in, like sardines in the can. After the first watering hole all will be easier.

The first stop is Flash of Beauty Beach. It shares the same beach with Loblolly on Loblolly Bay. Three of us elect to walk the beach to Loblolly where we plan to eat lunch. I did not have the right shoes so myself and the other 3 ordered a beer and got back in the SUV. It is hot and a cold beer sounds good and they have Presidente Beer from the Dominican Republic. One sip and I was back on Luperon Bay in the Dominican Republic.

It is 1 PM and high time for lunch. Loblolly is the best on Island for lunch. They have shrimp, fish, lobster, chicken and ribs. All are served with Caribbean potato salad, steamed carrots and raisin rice. The potato salad is the healthiest I have had, almost no mayonnaise mostly potatos, spices and vegetables. We reordered the rice; it was almost like a fried rice with raisins and other tasty things in it. Loblolly is mostly a food serving pavilion and a unique driftwood bar, yes the small bar is constructed from driftwood from the beach. A grove of I guess loblollies provides shade and support for 3 or 4 hammocks just bar side of the beach. The beach has woden chairs and thatch covered umbrella sized shade makers. If you have your camera there are some beautiful shots available.

Our next stop is Cow Wreck Beach. The big attraction here is the bar where all the boater gather early for a sundowner and share lies. Its name originates because a ship loaded with cattle wrecked on the reef in a storm.  The skeletons of the dead cattle washed up on the beach. The West Indian woman, Mama, who lives next to and runs the bar has used the skulls on the bar to carry the story. When we first started coming here,16 years ago, there was a heap of cow skulls and bones piled where the new covered concrete dance floor now stands. The only problem the nice smooth surface of the dance floor is now ruff and pitted with the foot prints of cows. It seems some of the cattle from that ship survived and built a colony that runs free on the island. Soon after the concrete was poured and smoothed they decided to make a tribute to their ancestors in agreement with the bar's name. It will be interesting to see what this becomes. Maybe, Cow Wreck Rock You dance floor.

Mama has equipped the bar with plenty of Caribbean sports bar games. There is the Soggy Dollar Ring Toss, darts, basketball hoop and a new pool table. Today there is a Spring Break crowd. This means the place is taking on the rural Texas family watering hole look. The adults are having their sun downers while telling stories / some say lies and the non drinking younger ones are busy burning lots of energy playing the games.

A few people are on the beach or in the more risky water, a sign at the bar brings your attention to the potential for dangerous rip tides and undertow. A conflicting sign also at the bar is in the shape of a finger pointing towards the beach offering a free bath, a Caribbean tourist humor I guess.

God Bless Bella Donna