This morning we are going to hike to 3 waterfalls. The guide book says it is next to the
Pension Kaoha Nui. A pension is how the guide book describes a place you stay overnight.
It may be like a bed and breakfast or a hostel where you sleep either in private room or a
dorm like room with others. You may have your own bathroom or share with others. In any
case it is less formal than a resort or hotel and is often on the South Pacific Islands in
the home of a local Polynesian.
The walk starts out on a one lane dirt road going down the right side of Kaoha Nui. We
probably could have driven the car further down this road as it turns out there is ample
space to park on the roadside as far as a quarter to half a mile. The road passes through
cultivated fields and past horses tied by the side that spooked by our non Polynesian
look. The guide book is not very descriptive; it says the walk is 2 kilometers, but is
that one way or roundtrip and exactly where is the start and finish measured from? We walk
at least one and a half miles in the one direction which is over 2 kilometers. We see some
very small water falls and cross the stream once on slippery rocks, but we never see the
large swimming pond at the bottom a waterfall that is described as a leisurely hike much
less the rock climb scramble where we would have to hold onto ropes. We need to return and
start our car tour of the island so we turn around. Later today I see a picture of the
waterfall with the swimming hole beneath it. Obviously we missed it; what is pictured is
ideal looking.
The car ride begins by retracing the route to Moorings Marina on the other side of town
which is also the west side of the island. The town of Utuora is the second largest city
in all of French Polynesia behind Papeete. Today is Sunday and even though there is a
cruise ship at the town dock the streets are empty, no shops except some grocery stores
and gas stations are open and they will be closed by noon. Unlike other days there are no
cars on the streets. The closest thing to compare is maybe Christmas morning in a busy US
city. As we drive through I can see the attendant in his Shell Oil uniform filling a
customer's gas tank and cleaning the wind shields; there is no self service at the gas
station. It is like a flashback to the 1950's in the US.
We drop off one of the rent cars off at Moorings Marina for John to use when they move the
Bella Donna around to this area. We check out the charter boat marina. There are several
42 foot catamarans either returning or leaving on bare boat charters. The luggage is
stacked up on the dock at the stern of boats read to be taken aboard or to the Moorings
Hotel. We listen for what language is spoken and hear familiar American English. It turns
out the 4 couples, in their late 20's or early 30's, they are returning from a 2 week
bareboat charter. Some are from San Francisco and some are from Oklahoma. We exchange trip
highlights and comparisons. They give us some wonderful things to do while in Tahaa and
Bora Bora. They chartered 3 times in the BVI and we compare Soggy Dollar, Willie Tee,
Bitter End, Anegada and Foxy's to the experience here. They like the beauty and exotic
nature of this place and it has been a once in a lifetime experience, but they like the
easy shallow anchorages and fast access to the next island and party in the BVI. We refer
this as the spring break attitude. I think we are travelers and don't need the spring
break scene any more. Note these kids are living in BC times, before children.
The drive around the island is OK, but you can do with a much shorter trip pretty much the
same thing. The entire coast of the island is residential and all the houses are the same
simple design. It is Sunday and church plays a major role here. You can see men dressed in
dark suits and women in their flower ringed straw hats and Sunday dress. Some are walking
and some are even riding bicycles. There are churches spread all around the island with
more being built.
We finish our tour at a seaside French restaurant in the Moorings Marina which also
includes the French Sunsail Charter company. Hinano beer and salads are great.
God Bless Bella Donna.
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