passage in the afternoon and that is exactly what we are doing. Up early, 6 AM, we ate
carbs, oatmeal, and set out into the cool sunny morning. If this sun stays out it is going
to be hot later.
We go in the same direction we did Sunday afternoon to Tartuga Beach. This is the only
wildlife area we are allowed to go without a guide other than the Darwin Research Station.
We enter the park and enter our names in a log book. We then follow a narrow 2 mile path
constructed from paver stones that resembles a very short version of The Great Wall of
China. Raising us up above the rough lava landscape dotted by a few trees and cactus that
somehow find a place to put down roots, we are extremely thankful for the smooth flat
walking surface. It takes us to the same beach we visited Sunday. Little black lizards
scurry in every direction all around us as we walk. Sunday there was a continuous stream
of local families coming and going burdened with children, strollers, diaper bags and
beach stuff. This morning there are housewives and tourists like us. The morning is the
time for the Latin woman to jog, ride a bike or just walk with her children. The afternoon
is for men to do the same. There aren't that many, but hey it is early. We say ola the
equivalent to "hi how are you" hoping to get a simple response and not a conversation that
would expose our very inadequate Spanglish. Most say ola back to us. One woman and little
boy passed and I said ola; the boy was clearly Latin but the woman had a different look.
The little boy said ola but the woman said salom. We reach the beach; the tide is going
out making it a perfect time to walk parallel to the waves on the wet sand left behind by
the retreating tide.
About 2/3 mile down the beach the beach abruptly ends and lava rocks take its place. All
in the lava the black iguanas breed, nest and sleep. These are sea going aquatic iguanas.
They enter the sea to gather seaweed. There bodies accumulate so much salt they have
evolved to sneeze salt from their nostrils. They seem to like lying as if exhausted next
to one another, sometimes on top of one another. Maybe they are stretched out to get the
sun's warmth. However, the sun is gone, replaced by cool damp clouds and sea air. This is
starting to remind me of San Francisco or Hermosa Beach in June when it is foggy.
Inland from the iguana village is a lagoon that has a narrow opening to the sea. It is
similar to the lagoon at the Waikoloa Hilton in Kona Hawaii, minus the development. We
walk around the nice beach that lines the lagoon. We stop and spread a picnic that Deborah
has prepared. Soon small very friendly birds join our picnic uninvited. Galapagos animals
have not learned to be afraid of humans; they are so trusting. I have seen this with high
sierra mountain birds while backpacking. These birds mingle in with us as we eat; a rule
of the park is you do not feed the animals. Somehow, that is my story and I am sticking
with it, the little cute critters found crumbs. Why one brave little thing walked up and
stole food right from my hand. Another pecked at a pineapple slice someone was about to eat.
Just feet away in the lagoon water; sharks, rays and lots of sea life swam up and down the
beach. A large group of school children arrived and started to swim. There has never been
a shark bite of a swimmer in the Galapagos. There is just too much sea life so everyone is
well fed without having to eat less tasty humans.
We saw sea lions, seals and huge numbers of pelicans. The abundance of sea life has to be
truly unique in the world.
God Bless Bella Donna.
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